Earlier this month, Berenjak opened its doors at Soho House Chicago, bringing Iranian food to the Fulton Market District and marking the restaurant’s second public US location, following its outpost at Soho Warehouse in Downtown Los Angeles. Bringing its home-style approach to the Chicago community, the restaurant takes inspiration from the kabab houses of Tehran and offers a shared, family-style dining experience rooted in the flavors and traditions of Persian cooking. We recently attended the media preview evening, barely scratching the surface of the menu. Here’s what we had:
Noon O Mazeh (Bread and Starters)
There are just two breads to order for the table, essential for dipping into one (or more) of the dip selections on the menu. The Taftoon bread is a pillowy, wood oven-baked sourdough flatbread, sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds. Complementing that is the Sangak, another flatbread made from whole wheat and sesame seeds, baked on hot pebbles for a charred look and texture. While plain in flavor, the two breads make excellent vessels for the dips and dishes that follow.
Berenjak’s signature Hummus is a unique blend of black chickpeas, sunflower seed tahini and somagh (sumac). However, the hummus simply misses the mark on flavor and texture. What looks more like chocolate mousse, Berenjak’s twist on the classic Levantine dip is bland and remained mostly untouched throughout our experience.
Redeeming the dip category was the Mast o Musir, a strained yogurt-based spread with tangy goats curd, finely chopped Persian shallots and a healthy drizzle of olive oil. Needless to say, we swiped every bit of this off its little plate!
Kababs
Succulent boneless chicken breast is the star of the Jujeh Kabab, one of six protein-packed kababs to choose from. The chicken is lovingly marinated in fragrant saffron, lemon juice, yogurt and tomato before being sliced and skewered onto a welcoming piece of Sangak. Pair each bite with a spritz of lemon juice, sliced onion and fire-roasted tomato for an all-encompassing experience for your palate.
Sofreh (Spreads/Sides)
The spreads and sides are nearly impossible to choose from but we were told not to skip out on the House Rice. An essential addition to every dish on the menu, the aromatic saffron rice comes glistening with salted butter and blissful bites of crispy rice for those of us that love the grain from the bottom of the pot! For a small upcharge, add some tart zereshk (dried barberries) for a completely authentic experience.
There is no lack of freshness when it comes to the spreads and sides to pair your dishes with, whether they are pickled or raw veggies. We like the Shirazi, a cucumber and tomato chop salad with a bit of onion and mint. Other vegetable pairings include a riff on a cucumber salad, Persian-style giardinera, and corn on the cob.
Drinks, Tea, and Dessert
The beverage menu showcases a myriad of non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks, reflecting the ever-changing drinking culture and preferences. On the N/A side, we love the mouth-puckering Black Lime Sharbat, loaded with black and fresh limes, a splash of soda and garnished with mint. For a palate cleanser, we recommend the Doogh, a simple traditional beverage of sparkling salted yogurt and dried mint.
As for the alcoholic selections, the staff-recommended Olive Leaf Martini is a strong sipper composed of olive leaf gin, the obligatory vermouth and torshi pickles - a traditional Middle Eastern and Persian condiment made from a tangy, spiced mix of pickled vegetables. At the other end of the spectrum is the sweet Saffron & Apricot Sour infused with saffron liqueur, apricot, lemon and white port.
Finally, what other way to finish a Persian feast than with a duo of Date and White Chocolate Chip Cookies and a spot of traditional Chayee (tea)? Control your pour with the presented kit: a glass teapot filled with strong and dark black tea, istikan (waist-shaped) glasses used to serve the tea so its color is visible, and a cup of sugar cubes ready to dissolve in the hot tea. Pair each sip with a morsel of Berenjak’s Date and White Chocolate Chip Cookies for the ultimate end to the meal.
Berenjak is located within Soho House Chicago at 113-125 N Green St. Current hours of operation are Tuesday through Saturday, from 5pm to 11pm. Open to the public, reservations are available on berenjak.com. Walk-ins are also accepted.
Why It Stands Out
Earlier this month, Berenjak opened its doors at Soho House Chicago, bringing Iranian food to the Fulton Market District and marking the restaurant’s second public US location, following its outpost at Soho Warehouse in Downtown Los Angeles. Bringing its home-style approach to the Chicago community, the restaurant takes inspiration from the kabab houses of Tehran and offers a shared, family-style dining experience rooted in the flavors and traditions of Persian cooking. We recently attended the media preview evening, barely scratching the surface of the menu. Here’s what we had:
Noon O Mazeh (Bread and Starters)
There are just two breads to order for the table, essential for dipping into one (or more) of the dip selections on the menu. The Taftoon bread is a pillowy, wood oven-baked sourdough flatbread, sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds. Complementing that is the Sangak, another flatbread made from whole wheat and sesame seeds, baked on hot pebbles for a charred look and texture. While plain in flavor, the two breads make excellent vessels for the dips and dishes that follow.
Berenjak’s signature Hummus is a unique blend of black chickpeas, sunflower seed tahini and somagh (sumac). However, the hummus simply misses the mark on flavor and texture. What looks more like chocolate mousse, Berenjak’s twist on the classic Levantine dip is bland and remained mostly untouched throughout our experience.
Redeeming the dip category was the Mast o Musir, a strained yogurt-based spread with tangy goats curd, finely chopped Persian shallots and a healthy drizzle of olive oil. Needless to say, we swiped every bit of this off its little plate!
Kababs
Succulent boneless chicken breast is the star of the Jujeh Kabab, one of six protein-packed kababs to choose from. The chicken is lovingly marinated in fragrant saffron, lemon juice, yogurt and tomato before being sliced and skewered onto a welcoming piece of Sangak. Pair each bite with a spritz of lemon juice, sliced onion and fire-roasted tomato for an all-encompassing experience for your palate.
Sofreh (Spreads/Sides)
The spreads and sides are nearly impossible to choose from but we were told not to skip out on the House Rice. An essential addition to every dish on the menu, the aromatic saffron rice comes glistening with salted butter and blissful bites of crispy rice for those of us that love the grain from the bottom of the pot! For a small upcharge, add some tart zereshk (dried barberries) for a completely authentic experience.
There is no lack of freshness when it comes to the spreads and sides to pair your dishes with, whether they are pickled or raw veggies. We like the Shirazi, a cucumber and tomato chop salad with a bit of onion and mint. Other vegetable pairings include a riff on a cucumber salad, Persian-style giardinera, and corn on the cob.
Drinks, Tea, and Dessert
The beverage menu showcases a myriad of non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks, reflecting the ever-changing drinking culture and preferences. On the N/A side, we love the mouth-puckering Black Lime Sharbat, loaded with black and fresh limes, a splash of soda and garnished with mint. For a palate cleanser, we recommend the Doogh, a simple traditional beverage of sparkling salted yogurt and dried mint.
As for the alcoholic selections, the staff-recommended Olive Leaf Martini is a strong sipper composed of olive leaf gin, the obligatory vermouth and torshi pickles - a traditional Middle Eastern and Persian condiment made from a tangy, spiced mix of pickled vegetables. At the other end of the spectrum is the sweet Saffron & Apricot Sour infused with saffron liqueur, apricot, lemon and white port.
Finally, what other way to finish a Persian feast than with a duo of Date and White Chocolate Chip Cookies and a spot of traditional Chayee (tea)? Control your pour with the presented kit: a glass teapot filled with strong and dark black tea, istikan (waist-shaped) glasses used to serve the tea so its color is visible, and a cup of sugar cubes ready to dissolve in the hot tea. Pair each sip with a morsel of Berenjak’s Date and White Chocolate Chip Cookies for the ultimate end to the meal.
Berenjak is located within Soho House Chicago at 113-125 N Green St. Current hours of operation are Tuesday through Saturday, from 5pm to 11pm. Open to the public, reservations are available on berenjak.com. Walk-ins are also accepted.
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Location
113-125 N Green St., Chicago, IL
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